Friday, November 18, 2016

Gaffes of the traveling gringos

Nicaragua has a reputation for being one of the safer countries in Central America and thus has a more developed tourism industry, greatly increasing the risk of experiencing opportunistic bamboozlement by touts and thieves.

Within our first week, we got ripped off in the following ways:

A cab driver in cahoots with a guy at the bus station in Managua "confirmed" for us that the bus running to the beach town of El Transito was no longer in operation (false) and gave us a "discounted" ride for $50. Net loss = $45

Tim's iPhone was stolen. Net loss ~$425

Some rando on the bus from Managua to Rivas posing as the driver sold us tickets, i.e. paper on which he wrote our destination, for 600 córdobas. Much confusion ensued when the actual driver came around to collect our fare. Net loss: $17

(Editor's note: Lest you think we're a couple of rubes, I assure you that their techniques, the details of which are too lengthy to describe here, were wily and sophisticated.)

As is often the way of the world, we also had a number of lovely experiences with the good people of Nicaragua that counterbalance the few negative experiences:

We stayed at one of the nicest Couchsurfing locations (in Managua) either of us have ever encountered and took a much needed rest day to do laundry and teach 14-year-old Johnny the meaning of various Obie Trice lyrics. Net gain: a more nuanced appreciation of Obie Trice's musicality, and ~$40 saved on two nights hostel in Managua.

At the beach, we relocated from a rundown hostel owned by a gringo from Ocean City, NJ (!) to a gorgeous hostel run by two Nicaraguan brothers who lived in Philly for twenty years (!) that cost half the price. They were very friendly and gave us a parting gift of a bottle of honey from one of the brother's own hives. Net gain: good conversation, good sleep, $60 price difference, and honey.

We hitchhiked a 15 minute stretch of busy PanAmerican highway with an older Nicaraguan gentleman named Mario who invited us to stay at his coffee farm (we had to pass, unfortunately). Net gain: conversation plus saved $15 on cab ride.

A friendly guy on the bus named Marlo - the bus on which we bought fake tickets - helped us get the local rate for a cab from the bus station in Rivas to the Ometepe Island port town of San Jorge by pretending he was going on vacation to the island with us. It was unclear until the very end of the ruse if he was actually going to try to come with us or maybe rob us. Net gain: good conversation on the bus with Marlo plus $3 saved on the 'local' cab rate vs the Gringo rate.

After a fun time last night in Altagracia, a town on Ometepe Island in Lake Nicaragua, celebrating the feast day of San Diego, we were awoken at roughly 3am and every hour thereafter by a neighbor's radio playing the worst kind of 90s alt rock and a series of roosters literally outside our door. Both of us have added learning how to kill chickens with our bare hands to our list of desired WWOOFing experiences. Despite our lack of sleep, we were able to put our newfound discernment skills to good use this morning when a guy - carrying a beetle the size of his hand, as one does - told us the buses aren't running today (false) and offered us a $26 cab ride to our next destination (Eco-lodge/farm called Jardin de la Vida) on the other side of the island. We told him we'd think about it, then found the bus, as scheduled, 30 minutes later. Net gain: $24

While it's infuriating in the moment to be tricked, ultimately we're talking about differences of a few dollars here and there. Being Americans, Tim and I have the freedom and resources to see parts of these countries that their own citizens may never visit. An iPhone is an embarrassingly expensive belonging when its value is converted to córdobas for a police report ($C 22,500). Furthermore, as we've been conversing with locals and reading more about the countries we're visiting, we've gained a much better understanding of the sad history of the United States' influence in the region, including training and arming the militaries of El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua to massacre their own people throughout the 80s and 90s. As Andy Staub would say "perspective is a bitch," and we've decided to view our losses as reparations on behalf of the Reagan (and probably Trump) administration.

Saturday, November 12, 2016

More Honduras pics


Who knew four kittens could convert a lifelong cat-hater?


Rosie helping make tortillas.


Silly pic with the the gals


Harvesting coffee


Honduran tractor

Cutting tanks and fire ants



Halloween trick or treaters!

Coffee farm 

The bare essentials

Our first week WWOOFing at The Leadership Center involved a lot of "cutting tanks," or weed whacking, as it's commonly known. This seemed an easy enough task until we learned how easily one can inadvertently whack a fire ant hill. First you feel a few sharp pricks on your shins or calves, which cause you to look down and notice several small ants crawling on your shoes. First you do some awkward slow-motion hopping while kicking the ground to try to shake them off and prevent them from moving north. Then the burning sensation increases and you realize with horror that the ground below you appears to be moving - you're standing in the middle of a teeming mound of fire ants. Not wanting to shut off your weed whacker (better to get those tanks over with before your hand goes numb and you incur permanent hearing loss), you begin to do a series of rapid backwards courtesies in an attempt to squash the ants inside your pants between  a knee and the other leg. As you feel the bites beginning to move up the thigh, you finally drop the whacker and start whacking your legs through your pants to squash the ants or pull your pants down entirely, all while whispering expletives, because you already took the Lord's name during the quarterly staff-student soccer match, and the classrooms are open-air and very close by, and not using profanity at in-opportune moments has never really been your strong suit. This happens every day for a week.

The food was also VERY simple. It is not an exaggeration to say we ate beans and tortillas every single meal of every single day, sometimes accompanied by steamed vegetables or less than one whole scrambled egg or, on better days, one chicken leg (see photo above for one of the sadder meals). One long-term volunteer lost 40 pounds the first month he was there. So of course we blew our last 50 lempiras on knock-off Oreos and cans of Super Cola from the snack shop, savoring every last crumb. 

But these (mildly amusing?) anecdotes don't do the experience justice. It was easily one of the best we've had on the entire trip. We spent two and a half weeks with some of the most lovely people, particularly the Honduran students, one of the teachers, a radical Black feminist (her description) from a Creole community in Louisiana, and a badass family of five from Oregon who have traveled all over the world, all of whom we hope to remain in contact with. The weather in the valley was beautiful and perfect while we planted shade trees or picked coffee beans. I (Jenn) gave three lessons on birth control and STDs/HIV during a health class and Tim made all the girls laugh during our time in the "honest chair," an English class activity in which the girls can ask the honest chair occupant any question they want so long as it's phrased grammatically correctly in English. Overall our time and conversations there gave us a lot of good ideas for how we want to live going forward, and everyone was incredibly generous with their friendship and their baked goods as we got to know them better.

Last night we arrived in Nicaragua, and we've just completed a sunset surf lesson from a guy from Wildwood (NJ, holler!). Having a wonderful time and missing you all.