Thursday, December 22, 2016

Medellín and Salento

In recent history, Medellín was one of the worlds most murderous cities. Today it is one of the most innovative and transformed places. Pablo Escobar and his drug cartel terrorized the city in the 80s and 90s. Today, visitors flock to the museums, boutique restaurants, and yoga studios using The Metro, a super clean and cheap rail line that runs the entire length of the city. There is even a system of cable cars that connect the slums on the outskirts of town. We were super impressed with this city and its people. We took the one-of-a-kind Pablo Escobar tour, run by two locals that lived through Pablo's reign of terror and even lost friends and loved ones in the senseless killings and bombings that plagued their home-town. The tour guide, Paola, was unapologetic in the way she described the toll Escobar and cocaine has had on her city and country. 

After Medellín, we went to Salento, gateway to the Valle de Cocora. The valley is home to the national tree of Colombia, the Wax Palm. These are Dr. Suess-esque trees that stand nearly 200 feet, with slender trunks and no branches except for the palms at the very top. The following day we toured a nature preserve called Kasaguadua. It is owned and managed by two Colombian guys, Carlos and Nicholas, with a lot of passion for their project. They are experimenting with natural methods for reclaiming their land from its former use as a mono-cultured grassland for grazing livestock. They are also building an eco lodge using Colombian bamboo called guadua. We learned on the tour that the Wax Palms in the Valle de Cocora will likely be gone within the next 20 years or so and will never return because the grasslands that humans have replaced their former habit with are not conducive to the natural regrowth of new trees. Very sad stuff, but encouraging to meet people like Carlos and Nicholas who are working toward better understanding our environment so we can avoid the same mistakes.

This evening we will take a short domestic flight to Bogota where we will meet up with Jenn´s mom and spend the holidays with the Colombian fam. Feliz navidad! 


Cable car in Medellin


Colombian civil war museum (consider it a living monument because the peace accords have not been finalized yet).

Former headquarter of Pablos drug cartel. Now it has a restaurant on the first floor.




Jenn standing at the base of a Wax Palm.


Wax palm selfie




This valley used to be a forest full of bio diversity. 150 years ago the entire valley was logged. The only reason the Wax Palms remained is because they are useless as timbers because their trunks are fibrous.




Eco lodge hut at Kasaguadua made of Colombian bamboo, The joints are made of recyled plastic bottles and bags.


Monday, December 12, 2016

Disco Volador 2600

Ultimate Frisbee is about the only sport I know of where you can show up to a foreign country and be welcomed to play on team full of people you've never met. I just spent the last four days playing in an Ultimate tournament in Bogotá with a group of Americans (mainly from WI and the Midwest) that called themselves the United States Amateur Team. I was put in touch with them by a mutual friend of the team captain/organizer. We ended up losing by one in the quarter finals to a very talented and super fast team from Cali, Colombia. I was honestly happy that we lost such a close game. That may sound odd, to be happy to lose. But to put it in perspective, the US (not our team, but the country in general) is the best in the world for Ultimate Frisbee, having invented the game in the 60s. So for this team from Colombia to play 'the best in the world' and win a very close game was something that they will long remember. We did our best to explain the word 'amateur' and that half of the team had just met each other a couple days ago, but to the Colombians, they beat the USA, so it didn't matter. The end of the game high five line was full of tears of joy on their side. It was beautiful.

After the four day long tournament, Jenn and I have left Bogotá for Medillín. We just arrived after a long 9 hour bus ride. We will explore this part of the country for the next week or so then back to Bogotá for Christmas with Jenn's mom and the Colombian cousins.

The squad. The United States Amateur Team.


The Apaches. Team from Cali that beat us in the quarter finals. 




Trading jerseys with other teams is common at international tournaments. The USA jerseys were a popular trade. I met this guy, Cesar, from Pamplona, Colombia, and swapped shirts with him.


Wednesday, December 7, 2016

El Jardin de la Vida

We followed up our last ascetic volunteer experience in Honduras (see 'Cutting tanks and fire ants' post from November 12) with a decadent volunteer experience in Nicaragua. Jenn and I spent the last two and a half weeks at an eco hostel on Ometepe Island in Lake Nicaragua. We slept in the hammock dorm while "working" at the hostel. We checked in guests, mixed cocktails with homemade juices, served beers and cooked dinners for the guests, the owners and ourselves. The owners are an American couple that loves to cook and eat delicious food. The kitchen was stocked with fresh local produce, chicken that had been smoked in a homemade smoker, and a healthy supply of homemade bread dough. We went from weight loss program in Honduras to a weight gain program in Nicargua. It was a fun, decadent couple of weeks. And as a side project, I created a promotional video for the hostel (as it just opened in July and they're trying to put the word out). The link is below.

We have just arrived in Bogotá, Colombia to embark on the next six weeks of our trip. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLC5Uc_8cGU

Riding along the beach during our three days off work. We bike around the island. Throw back to this past July's RAGBRAI.